How Niacinamide Works and How to Use It Safely on Our Skin

What is Niacinamide?

Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3 or nicotinamide, is a water-soluble vitamin widely used in skincare. It’s known for improving skin texture, controlling oil, reducing pigmentation, and strengthening the skin barrier. Unlike some acids, it is gentle and suitable for most skin types.

If you are interested in salicylic acid serum, we have already discussed about this here: Overview of Salicylic Acid Serum's Functions and Usage. 

Why Niacinamide is Beneficial for Skin

Niacinamide works through multiple mechanisms:

Niacinamide works through multiple mechanisms that make it a powerful skincare ingredient. It regulates sebum production, helping to balance oil levels in oily and acne-prone skin. At the same time, it reduces hyperpigmentation by inhibiting melanin transfer, which lightens dark spots, sun spots, and post-acne marks. Niacinamide also strengthens the skin barrier by enhancing ceramide production, keeping the skin hydrated and protected from environmental irritants. Its anti-inflammatory properties help reduce redness and irritation caused by acne, rosacea, or external stressors. Additionally, Niacinamide minimises fine lines and pore size by supporting collagen synthesis and improving overall skin texture, leaving the skin healthier, smoother, and more even-toned.

Forms of Niacinamide in Skincare

You can find Niacinamide in:

• Serums: Concentrated form for targeted treatment (2–10% typical).

• Moisturisers: Daily hydration with skin benefits.

• Toners and Essences: Light hydration and brightening.

• Masks and Creams: Short-term treatment for pigmentation or sensitivity.

Safe Usage of Niacinamide

• Safe Concentration Range:

  • 2–5% for daily use (most common in serums).

  • Up to 10% can be used for stubborn pigmentation or acne under guidance.

• Routine Usage:

  1. Cleansing: Start with a gentle cleanser.

  2. Application: Apply Niacinamide serum after cleansing and toning.

  3. Moisturiser: Follow with a hydrating, non-comedogenic moisturiser.

  4. Sunscreen (Morning): Protects against UV-induced pigmentation and damage.

• Frequency: Can be used daily, both morning and night. It is generally non-irritating.

Who Can Use Niacinamide

• Ideal for all skin types—oily, dry, sensitive, or combination.

• Particularly helpful for acne-prone skin, uneven tone, pigmentation, and early signs of ageing.

• Safe to combine with other actives like hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, or retinol, but always patch-test first.

Niacinamide – Structure and Function (The Summary)

Niacinamide (C₆H₆N₂O) is a water-soluble amide form of Vitamin B3, featuring a pyridine ring with an amide group (-CONH₂) attached. Its structure allows it to penetrate the skin effectively while remaining gentle, supporting enzymatic reactions inside skin cells. The amide group enhances its ability to stimulate ceramide and keratin production, strengthening the skin barrier, while the pyridine ring contributes to anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activity. This combination of features explains why niacinamide regulates sebum, reduces pigmentation, improves hydration, and minimises fine lines, all without irritating the skin.

Take-home message:
Niacinamide is a versatile, gentle, and highly effective vitamin for improving skin health, texture, and appearance. Regular, consistent use in a safe concentration (2–5%) can give long-term benefits without irritation.