How Salicylic Acid Actually Works on Your Skin

Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) widely used in skincare. It works by exfoliating dead skin cells from the skin’s surface and inside the pores. This not only promotes a cleaner and brighter appearance but also helps prevent acne.

Reasons Behind Acne Formation

Acne formation generally occurs due to:

1. Excess sebum production is often triggered by higher androgen (testosterone) levels during the teenage years.

2. Clogged pores, where sebum mixes with dead skin cells.

3. Formation of comedones – initially appearing as blackheads and whiteheads.

4. Bacterial growth (Cutibacterium acnes) inside clogged pores, leading to inflammation and red, swollen pimples.

Salicylic Acid's Functions on Your Skin

How salicylic acid helps:

• Oil-soluble exfoliation: Penetrates pores, dissolves excess sebum, and removes trapped debris.

• Prevents comedones: Stops the initial formation of blackheads/whiteheads.

• Anti-inflammatory action: Reduces redness and swelling associated with acne.

Thus, salicylic acid doesn’t directly kill bacteria, but by keeping pores unclogged and reducing inflammation, it makes the skin less favourable for bacterial growth and acne development.

Where to Get Salicylic Acid

Salicylic acid is a naturally occurring compound originally derived from willow bark and some fruits/vegetables. However, in skincare, it is used in synthetic and purified forms for safety and consistency.

You can find salicylic acid in different product formats:

• Cleansers/Face Washes (low strength, gentle daily use)

• Toners (liquid form for exfoliation)

• Serums (higher concentration, targeted acne treatment)

• Spot Treatments (for direct application on pimples)

• Medicinal creams/lotions (for acne, warts, dandruff, etc.)

Since our diet and lifestyle do not provide enough active salicylic acid to affect the skin, topical products are the most effective way to deliver it directly into pores.

Safe Usage of Salicylic Acid Serum

• Safe Concentration Range:

  • 0.5–2% for over-the-counter serums/cleansers (safe for most skin types).

  • Higher concentrations (up to 20–30%) are only used in clinical/chemical peels under a dermatologist's supervision.

• Routine Usage:

  1. Cleansing: Start with a gentle cleanser.

  2. Application: Apply a thin layer of salicylic acid serum (usually at night).

  3. Moisturiser: Follow with a hydrating, non-comedogenic moisturiser to prevent dryness.

  4. Sunscreen (Morning): Always use SPF in the daytime, as exfoliated skin is more sun-sensitive.

• Frequency: Start with 2–3 times a week, then increase if your skin tolerates it.

Who Can Use Salicylic Acid

• Best for teenagers and young adults with oily or acne-prone skin.

• Can also be used in adulthood to manage clogged pores, blackheads, and uneven texture.

• Avoid in very dry, sensitive, or eczema-prone skin, unless advised by a dermatologist.

Salicylic Acid – Structure and Function (The Core Summary)

Salicylic acid (C₇H₆O₃) is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) composed of a benzene ring with a hydroxyl group (-OH) at the ortho position and a carboxyl group (-COOH). This structure makes it both lipophilic (oil-soluble) and mildly acidic, allowing it to penetrate sebaceous follicles and dissolve excess sebum. The hydroxyl group facilitates chemical exfoliation by breaking bonds between dead skin cells, while the acidic carboxyl group helps maintain a slightly lower pH on the skin surface, discouraging bacterial growth. Together, these structural features enable salicylic acid to unclog pores, reduce blackheads and whiteheads, and calm inflammation in acne-prone skin.