Niacinamide Serum Formulation Guide: Create Your Own Perfect Serum

Niacinamide is one of the most versatile actives in modern skincare. Whether someone wants brighter skin, stronger barrier support, oil balance, or a gentle daily serum, niacinamide fits almost every routine. The best part? It’s very formulator-friendly. With a few careful choices, you can create a serum that feels exactly the way you want—light, thick, silky, hydrating, or premium.

This guide gives you a complete, easy-to-follow formulation page so anyone—from skincare hobbyists to professional chemists—can design a niacinamide serum tailored to their preferences.

Why Niacinamide?

Niacinamide or Nicotinamide

• Supports barrier repair

• Improves uneven tone

• Reduces oiliness and the appearance of pores

• Works well with almost all ingredients

• Stable across a wide pH range (ideal: 5.0–6.5)

Most serums use 2–10% niacinamide, with 5% being a popular balanced concentration.

Key Ingredients You Can Choose From

1. Core

• Niacinamide – 2–10%

• Water – base solvent (60–85%)

2. Hydration Boosters

• Glycerin (2–5%)

• Propanediol/Butylene Glycol (2–8%)

• Hyaluronic Acid (0.1–0.5%)

3. Texture Builders

Choose depending on the feel you want:

Light Gel:

• Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer (0.3–1.0%)

Natural Gel:

• Xanthan Gum (0.15–0.6%)

Cream-like Gel:

• Carbomer (0.15–0.4%, requires neutralization)

4. Stability & Preservation

• Disodium EDTA (0.05–0.2%)

• Phenoxyethanol + Ethylhexylglycerin (0.5–1.0%)

• pH adjuster (Citric acid or NaOH)

Three Ready Formula Options

These templates are flexible—adjust thickness, niacinamide %, humectants, and preservatives depending on your needs.

1. Light, Fast-Absorbing Gel Serum

Perfect for oily or acne-prone skin.

Feel: Clear, non-sticky, quick-absorbing.

2. Hydrating Serum with Hyaluronic Acid

For normal to dry skin, smooth, slip and hydration.

Feel: Soft, slightly thicker, hydrating.

3. Thick, Serum-Cream Hybrid

For premium textures and dry skin.

Feel: Richer, cushiony, elegant.

How to Make It (Short Steps)

1. Prepare the water phase with humectants and EDTA.

2. Add niacinamide, then mix until fully dissolved.

3. Disperse the thickener (xanthan, carbomer, or acrylate polymer).

4. Cool to below 40°C.

5. Add hyaluronic acid (if used).

6. Add preservative.

7. Adjust pH to 5.0–6.5.

8. Bottle and store.

How to Customise Your Serum

Want a thinner texture?

• Reduce polymer to 0.1–0.2%

• Increase water content

Want it thicker?

• Increase Xanthan or Carbomer

• Add Hyaluronic Acid for the body

Want it more hydrating?

• Increase glycerin or add dual HA (LMW + HMW)

Sensitive skin?

• Reduce niacinamide to 2–4%

Quality Checks Before Finalising

• pH (target 5.0–6.5)

• Viscosity (does it match the expected feel?)

• Clarity/appearance

• Niacinamide assay (if doing professional QC)

• Stability test (colour, pH shift)

• Microbial test and preservative challenge test

Final Thoughts

Niacinamide is one of the easiest and most forgiving actives to work with. Once you understand texture systems, humectant balance, and preservation, you can create endless variations—from watery essences to creamy gel serums. Whether someone is a DIY user experimenting at home or a chemist developing a commercial product line, this formulation guide gives a strong base to build on.